Showing posts with label Bar Milano. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bar Milano. Show all posts

Saturday, April 12, 2008

Standing for about four hours at Bar Milano

or Everybody Loves Tony Abou-Ganim

April 11

Really, they do. And how can't you? He's super nice and chill.

I heard that there was a friends and family opening on the 10th, but the problem with soft openings is that a restaurant can have one, or maybe more. They might think one soft opening is OK, but then go back and close it all down for a couple of days to tweak things before deciding to do an opening proper. I guess I could've called to check or something, but I figured that if it was open, it was. In the case that it wasn't, I'd rather have the total plausible deniability of "Aw shucks, you guys aren't open? I didn't know that..." if I waltzed into the middle of a soft opening. I prefer to go with the Daniel Day-Lewis school of method acting when it comes to restaurant opening crashings.

Lucky for me, I guess Bar Milano decided one night was enough and I walked into a restaurant that was in full swing. I asked for a seat at the bar but was told the bar seats were all full. I was taken to a communal standing table in the middle of the bar but decided I wasn't going to ferry myself between the table and the bar. So I took my chances with not being able to get a seat and squeezed myself into a corner end so that I could be in the direct line of where the drinks were coming from and get a chance to chat with Tony.

Tony said that the bar had just gotten its liquor license at 4:30 pm the previous day, so this was the staff's first time serving actual guests. It was a good thing that liquor license came through because the bar was packed. During a quick breather between drinks three and four, I stepped out to the main dining area and it was definitely calmer than the bar.



"Wow, they weren't kidding when they put the 'bar' in front of 'Bar Milano,'" I thought. Sadly, I amuse myself a lot with internal dialogue. The bar area is out front and on display. It's the most noticeable thing about the place from the outside with its large window front that seems to say "Hey, passersby. Check out or cool pretty bar. Look at all these people having a drink. Don't you want to be one of these people? Wouldn't you like to come in and relax with a drink?"



Thanks to the large windows and lighting, the bar is brighter than if you were sitting in the dining area.

Other details about the bar? The glassware was designed especially for Bar Milano and handcrafted and blown in Poland. The glasses look great, but a word of warning, if you get anything served in an Old-Fashioned glass (like say the Sunshine), you are buying yourself two tickets to the gun show. OK, well, I guess one ticket, since you'll be mainly working out your drinking arm. These things are *heavy*. Not enough to impair your drinking, but still, noticeably so. I liked the heft though.

Also, no bottled water. The place is hooked up with spigots that provide cool flat and sparkling water on tap.

Tony also wrangled some natural undyed golden cherries rather than using the typical dyed, preserved, atomic red Maraschino cherry, to use as garnishes for some of his cocktails. I was lucky to have one in my first drink, a Corpse Reviver No. 2. Tony dropped a cherry into the drink and it sat nestled at the narrow bottom of the cocktail glass. It was an interesting garnish because it didn't necessarily pop out, but would make its presence known when you'd move the glass a little. It'd slowly rotate into your line of vision like a baleful sun. Quite fitting for a drink with a name like Corpse Reviver.

And I totally ate it, because I'm the type of person who eats garnishes. It was very mild and just lightly sweet. It had just a slight bit of fruitiness to it so that if you were to accidentally bit down on it (instead of fishing it out and chomping down on it like I did) it wouldn't kill your tongue to the flavor of the drink. None of that cough medicine or strong sweet flavors. And let me just say, the garnishes were delicious. Even the orange slice for the Sunshine was tasty. It wasn't some errant slice all dry and sad, it was juicy and tasted like an orange.

The evening started off with anise flavors. The cocktail menu was still AWOL, so I decided to put my fate in the hands of the people making the drinks to start off. Tony put down a Corpse Reviver No. 2 in front of me. I seem to get started off with that a lot. Allan the bar manager made me a Rattlesnake. It was the first time I'd had a Rattlesnake. Allan said he liked to call it an "unholy lovechild of a Sazerac and a Whisky Sour." Did I mention that Allan is fun to listen to? Well, he is. I wasn't trying to bother him while he did his work thing, but I couldn't resist pestering him with a few questions.

The cocktail wasn't very sweet at all, and definitely sour, but at the same time a little smoky thanks to the rye whiskey and anise from the Pernod.

Tony also made a lot of fizzes for Bar Milano. I had two. The Veneto and Milano both were cocktails full of orange flavor, but sort of on opposite sides of the spectrum for orange. The former was "light and fun" as Tony said, with some Aperol and fizz from a little Prosecco. The latter packed a heavier, more bitter punch with Campari.

Looking over my notes, I realize there's a lot of oranges going on. There was also quite a bit of Aperol slinging behind the bar. Tony enjoys using Campari and bitters, so the use of Aperol might not be surprising, but there's actually a reason behind it. Tony said the Aperol is a sort of tip of the hat to the Northern Italian cuisine of the restaurant. I also noticed his use of honey in some of the cocktails and asked if he preferred using it over simple syrup, but he responded that it was simply because he found that honey went well with Aperol.

And while all this Aperol might seem like too much aperitif for one person to take, it rears its head in different ways. For example, the Purgatory was a sunny almost tropical cocktail using citrus vodka, Aperol, elderflower liqueur, lime juice and fresh mango puree. The Aperol seemed to help keep the whole thing grounded from floating away on a sweet cloud of mango and elderflower. The burnt orange peel's a nice touch as well. And for those of you who might be interested, this drink came about thanks to an episode of Iron Chef America, when Tony had to mix drinks using the secret ingredient...(all together now, in the chairman's voice) MAAAAAANGOOOOOOO!!!!

I realized that I had been standing at the bar for several hours at this point and decided I needed to make my way out and let some other people have a chance to drink. As I was about to leave Tony asked me, "Did you have a Sunshine yet?"

I answered that no, I had not, and Tony told me I couldn't leave before trying that. He really didn't need to twist my arm, so I sat down and took a sip of the cocktail and again, found it an amazingly sunny drink. I know I used that adjective already for the Purgatory, but this one really deserves it. That "Sunshine" business was no joke.

Tony said he'll probably be around until the end of the month before heading back to Las Vegas, so stop on by if you want to talk to the man himself about his drinks. If you miss him this time around, he'll be back. He said he'd at least try to make it back here quarterly. Also, see if you can get a hit of the rosemary-infused gin that he's using for one of his cocktails. I didn't get to try the actual cocktail this time around, but I'm definitely making another stop there in the near future after having had a bit of the gin. The infusion made it so that the rosemary sort of just exploded as it hit your tongue. However, it wasn't so much you tasted it, but the smell of rosemary rolls through your mouth.

Sunday, April 6, 2008

Bar Milano opening update

Restaurant opening dates are mutable things and it's no surprise that you can't be 100% sure of an opening date until the restaurant has actually opened in some weird Schroedinger's cat-esque exercise, but for those of you keeping track of progression for Bar Milano...

...According to a brief e-mail exchange with Joe Denton, the opening date is no longer April 7 and is later in the week "if everything is according to plan."

But you can be sure I'll follow up on this with a physical visit.

Thursday, March 20, 2008

A tiki party with DISCUS

March 19

Two interesting things from the evening:

1. Learning Bar Milano, the New York bar that Tony Abou-Ganim is a partner in, is planning to open April 7.
2. I shook hands with Tony Abou-Ganim.

You kind of geek out about certain things when you're familiar specific industries. I'd always heard about Tony, read about him, but never seen or spoken to him. So it was kind of exciting to actually meet him. If I had to compare this to something else from my life. It was like the time I stood in line for three hours at Forbidden Planet so I could get my comics signed by Grant Morrison and I was having my own little geek excitement moment when it was my turn to have him sign my comics and...OK, maybe that example is a bit hard to relate to as well.

But more on the two points later.

It was a dreary, drizzling gray March evening when I walked into Bikini Bar. The Distilled Spirits Council of the United States, with the Olympian abbreviation of DISCUS, was holding a Tiki Rum Party. Suddenly, I was in Hawaii. Or at least an indoor sun-soaked beach house facsimile. Of all the bars I've been in, Bikini Bar is hands down the brightest. The tiki party theme was in full swing. There were leis, pupu platters, Hawaiian shirts and of course, plenty of rum and rum cocktails. They even had Blue Hawaii playing in the background on mute.

Taking advantage of the bi-level bar, Don Lee and Jim Meehan of PDT shook up several drinks downstairs, while upstairs, UK bar expert Angus Winchester mixed up another list of beverages.

Bret was already there when I arrived, though he couldn't stay for long since he had to head out to Broadway East. He was talking to Aaron Burns, senior marketing manager of Bacardi Innovations, a division of Bacardi Brands. Aaron chatted with me a bit about Rubi Rey, Bacardi's new single barrel finished white rum.

Aaron said the Rubi Rey has "the image of a vodka with the substance of a scotch." People are willing to pay more for premium vodkas and Bacardi decided that a premium rum would provide an alternative to those consumers who want something on a premium level that's not vodka. Aaron added that people are looking towards trying different premium spirits. Factoid of the evening from Aaron, "Ninety-five percent of the rums sold in the United States is sold for less than $15."

I kept going back and forth between upstairs and downstairs throughout the evening because of the number of people milling about directly in front of the bars made me feel claustrophobic. Also, for some reason I kept finding myself inevitably packed into a corner or awkwardly squeezed between to conversing groups. I felt like Houdini trying to escape out of a tight squeeze every five minutes. At the same time I was entirely too wrapped up in taking notes and peering over the bars to see what was going on while trying to see if I could snap some photos.

Being that mobile there was a lot of people I found myself running into and I mean that pretty much literally. As I sipped Colada Nueva Dos that Jim made downstairs I tried to reign in my short attention span to read some name tags and introduced myself to Martin Doudoroff of CocktailDB.

Upstairs I spotted someone across the room over the sea of heads who I thought looked familiar until I practically smacked myself on the forehead when I realized it was Joaquin. I managed to grab him right before he was leaving to say hi. Unfortunately, I don't do faces in crowds all that well. I wish I was joking at how bad I get with faces sometimes. Sometimes I feel like the journalist version of Adrian Monk. I have all these quirks hat you think would hamper me from doing my job.

At one point in the evening, a gentleman next to me asked how the Bajan Peach Smash that I was drinking tasted. I said it started off sweeter than how I usually like my cocktails, but as the ice melted it mellowed out a bit. I added that I tried the Baron Samedi's Brew and I thought that was kind of interesting.

As he turned to order the Baron Samedi I caught a glimpse of his name tag and performed a distinctly ungraceful double take.

After fully processing the name on the name tag, I thought to myself. "Tony Abou-Ganim just asked me my opinion about a drink."



Before heading out Tony came over to say good bye and I shook his hand and said, "I kind of had a minor 'rock star spotted' type of mini freak out back there."

"Yes, I saw it on your face," Tony said.

Tony was in town because things were gearing up towards the April 7 opening of Bar Milano.

Later when I got to chat a bit with Allan, a bartender working with Tony, who told me that everything seemed to be running on schedule and that Tony himself would probably be behind the bar for a little bit after opening to make sure everything is running smoothly. By the way, Allan also has an ode to nightlife type of project in the works, which you can preview here.

The party was drawing to a close and finally the both bars were clearing out. I went downstairs and plopped down on a stool and Jim introduced me to Don. I declared that Don had one of the coolest business cards I'd seen that evening.

"Hey! You're the one responsible for the foie-gras infused bourbon," I said to Don, remembering that Joaquin told me he scored the bourbon from PDT for his Loosey Goosey.

I asked Don a bit more about fat washing and how he got the idea for the foie-gras bourbon. Originally it was created to be part of a recipe for a sherry contest. Rather than strictly thinking about how to pair sherry with food, Don said that he thought, "Well, why don't we just make the cocktail like a food item?"

Don said he also did a bacon bourbon using the same bacon as the one used at Momofuku, which has a lot of flavorful fat. Don explained how a lot of bacon infusion recipes he's seen going around actually put the meat of the bacon in the spirit, when it's the fat that has the flavor. And they also cite infusion periods that are too long. Don said weeks is a bit of an overkill when a couple of days will do. And to avoid floating globules of fat, some form of fat washing is necessary. The bacon bourbon, for example, is frozen so that the fat solidifies on top for easy extraction.

Don and I ended talking a bit about Korean soju. Don has a grandfather who was a soju distiller, believe it or not. Don joked that the spirits selling skipped a generation. Having grown up in Korea, I referred to the efforts to make soju cocktails. Famously, or maybe infamously depending on your point of view, Lemon Soju and Yakult/Yogurt Soju, for example. I asked him if he'd ever thought about making his own soju cocktail. Don said, he would if there was a soju that met his standards. I mentioned how in Korea there seemed to be a bit of a premium soju boom going on, with more variety. Don said while that was the case, Korea's tumultuous history killed off artisinal soju, which was how it was made originally. As the country rapidly recovered from the Korean War, soju production became very industrialized and quality dropped a bit.

Before leaving I couldn't help but half-jokingly challenge Don to try and make a high-end version of Yakult Soju.

Drinks from the party:

Mai Tai
Bacardi 8
10 Cane rum
Orange Curacao
lime juice
orgeat

Colada Nueva Dos
Tommy Bahama
White Sand
Malibu Coconut
lime juice
coconut sorbet
pineapple juice

Royal Bermuda Yacht Club Cocktail
Mt. Gay Eclipse
lime juice
Cointreau
lime juice
Velvet Falernum

Dark and Stormy
Cruzan Black Strap
lime juice
ginger beer

Bajan Peach Smash
Cruzan Estate Dark
lemon wedges
peach puree
simple syrup
mint leaves

Coconut Grenade
Malibu Coconut
Bacardi 8
passionfruit syrup
Angostura Bitters
lime juice
coconut milk

Baron Samedi's Brew
Myers Dark
orgeat
Honey Cream
lime juice
ginger beer
Angostura Bitters
absinthe