Thursday, May 22, 2008

Geek Indulgences: Tabletop bartending

or "Cocktail guides for sourcebooks and jiggers for 12-sided dice"

Warning to non-nerds: You may find the following blog post too obscure, uninteresting or even sleep-inducing to non-nerd sensibilities. Proceed with caution.

Warning to nerds: My role-playing experiences are more from video games than tabletop even though I've dabbled in the latter. But feel free to nitpick in the comments section if I'm missing anything because, though familiar, some of the nuances might be lost on me.


I remember after asking about how to deal with content for this, Bret answering with, "It's your blog."

I think after I post this he's going to regret ever telling me that. In fact, I'm regretting that he told me that.

Whenever I've tried to describe to people I know the mixology/bartending scene as I tried to make myself increasingly familiar with those behind the bar, it'd take me a while to think. Bartenders for the most part, at least know of each other. Pretty well in some cases, even though they might not be friends or anything. They might be in opposite coasts in the country, but have corresponded via email. The point is There's a level of camaraderie not unlike some kind of extended family meets unofficial guild. All joined together by the love of the cocktail. Or something similar to but a lot less hokey than that last sentence.

"Well, it feels like everyone knows each other," I'd start. "But it's not just that they're all friends, though some of them just know each other professionally. I mean some are friends, but it's more like..."

I'd give a great pause to try and find what I was going for.

"...It's like that group that meets for Dungeons and Dragons at the local comic shop every Friday. Some are good friends, the group can fluctuate, and newcomers come and go, but they are connected by the fact that they're all really, really...REALLY into what they're doing."

And I mean that in the best way possible. Please, don't hurt me bartenders and mixologists out there.

One day it hit me. Bartenders would TOTALLY make a legitimate and fun role-playing character. Maybe even a whole character class depending on what universe you were working in.

For example, you could create some kind of pre-Prohibition chemist/bartender from New Orleans who decided to see the world so he packed up and became an itinerant bartender caught up in some kind of adventure with a ragtag group of adventurers after he overheard them discussing a new adventure when they stumbled into a tavern he was working at one night. Something set in the world of Castle Falkenstein maybe? (Thanks for the game world suggestion, Elizabeth)

Or if you were to take a similar character and transplant him or her into the Jazz Age of say something like Call of Cthulhu? Then you could probably drum up a horror-mystery storyline for a failed Miskatonic University chemistry student turned speakeasy bartender who suddenly finds himself out of a job after a raid and ends up volunteering to work as an assistant for a former schoolmate and researcher friend. It just starts out as something the character does as a lark for "a change of scenery" as well as to make ends meet. Then of course things start going horribly wrong as research team gets pulled more into the world of the mythos.

Basically, I felt like it would work in any more "modern" settings where you needed a malleable character who wasn't just an adventurer/fighter type. Someone with knowledge of "magic" (chemicals, potions and tonics) with some sort of basic melee skills.

"I remember you talking about this before, but you're going to have to explain this a bit more to convince me," Don Lee of PDT said at Taste of the Nation when I brought it up again. In fact, the last time he overheard me try to explain this, he looked downright horrified.

"OK, so what I'm thinking is if I were to create a RPG character type, they'd be something like a cleric you know?"

Don looked skeptical.

"Sort of like a role-playing version of Jerry Thomas. The ability to revive? Heal? Bring back the dead? You know, like an old school pre-Prohibition bartender who had something for what ailed ya. Tinctures, infusions, cordials, what have you. But he could also throw down a bit if things got hairy."

At that moment I couldn't help but imagine a bartender wielding a muddler like mace.

Don raised an eyebrow and looked about 70% convinced. Like Icarus I took this as my cue to fly high.

"...I'm thinking though that even if based on clerics, they'd be more of a chaotic good alignment."

Instantly Don's face changed and my imaginary wax wings melted, "I don't know about that."

"No chaotic good??" I asked incredulously.

"Well, you had me up until the chaotic part," he said. "But good? I don't know."

Don's reaction brought me back to the root of why bartenders might be a bit tedious to create a character for. Whenever I talked to people about this idea, they all seemed to have their own idea of how they would craft their bartender character. Not that this is surprising, but bartenders came in all shapes, sizes, personalities and alignments. Maybe as a one-off classless character you styled after a certain class, but its own class? It was just too tricky. It would be like dealing with elves. Maybe you can work around it be creating several canonical varieties of bartenders with their own style and skill sets, but left unmoored you'd just KNOW that someone like your friend's annoying cousin who does badly rendered fantasy "art" involving thinly veiled aspirational versions of himself is going to insist that he's a special snowflake by making some ridiculously bulky character weighed down with back story where he's some kind of half-elf/underwater elf/dragon druid or something and he'll get TOO into it and would ruin everyone's game with his inability to...

...er, but I'm getting carried away.

Anyhow, the point being, your bartender could be anything depending on what comes to your mind when you think "bartender".

Jeffrey Morgenthaler thought cleric wasn't too bad, but if he had to give himself a character, he thought of himself more as a paladin. He also pointed out that thanks to learning the bar trade in seedier venues his character would always have +2 Strength. And I could definitely see that.

Fellow NRN-er Elizabeth Licata said that bartenders were more bards in her opinion. OK, this I could see too.

It all depended. The more I thought about it, I could see how a assassin or rogue filling up your next drink. And one bartender might think of themselves as more of a wizard while another might find themselves to be more of a sorcerer.

Then think about what edition rules you were going to try and base a game on and the alternate classes out there. I thought about all the bartenders I knew and found that, yea, pretty much there was a character class and unique style out there for any of them. The possibilities are simply endless. Which actually, makes it kind of cool from a story-telling standpoint.

I don't know. It's been a while and I never actively played *too* much so maybe it's not as hard as I'm making it out to be, but all the complexities does convince me even more that someone needs to play out a bartender character. That is, if this has not happened already somewhere out there in the wide world of tabletop gaming. If it has, let me know how it worked out for you.

Friday, May 16, 2008

Experiencing Jakewalk

May 15

Matt DeVriendt, owner/operator of The JakeWalk says that while they have a large selection of wines people seem to pay more attention to their cocktail list. "We were serving wine for five dollars a glass. I thought that'd be what got people's attentions."

In fact, if you go to The JakeWalk, you can order a flight of three wines or spirits for half price of the usual glass you'd order.

Not that the cocktail list is an afterthought, it's just not the sole focus or main focus. Matt just wanted people to know that the place does offer a wide variety of other beverage choices.

So though the event was featuring a new cocktail on the menu created by Dave Wondrich, the whole thing was planned out as a sort of mini tour of what you could The restaurant space was dotted with stations serving food and wine. Guests could grab a glass at table and wind their way around the place. Want to try some Jamon Iberico? Hold out your glass and have some Alvear's Fino from Montilla, Spain as well. Or how about trying several cheeses like Essex Street Comte and Stichelton blue cheese? That particular station had on hand the Commanderie de Peyrassol 2007 Cotes de Provence Rose and the Coppo, Brachetto d'Acqui "Passione" DOC, 2006.

If you were in the mood to do a bit of whiskey tasting you could mosey over to one side of the bar that had a hunk of Montgomery's Cheddar you could sample pieces off of and you could get a taste of McCarthy's Oregon Single Malt Whiskey, Springbank 10 Year Single Malt and...and a third one that I seemed to have barely scribbled down that I cannot read. Not surprising I suppose.

Dave Wondrich was behind the bar for a bit and mixed the Jakewalk punch that he'd created for the place that was equal parts fresh lime juice, St. Germain, Resposado tequila, rhum agricole and two dashes of Peychuad's bitters.

If anything, Dave Wondrich taught me a valuable lesson that sometimes solutions in drink making need not be complicated with some sort of deep rhyme or reason. I noticed the cubes of candied ginger sitting in the bottom of the glasses and had to ask why they were sitting at the bottom of the glass. Dave simply answered, "Because if they're already in the drink they won't fall in there."









Thursday, May 15, 2008

2008 Taste of the Nation New York

May 14

2008 celebrates the 20th anniversary of Share Our Strength's Taste of the Nation, where more events take place around the United States and Canada to raise funds to help battle childhood hunger. It's a great opportunity to have your money go to a good cause while being able to sample the works of chefs and restaurants in a participating city near you. At the New York event you got a wide range of tasting experiences from a wide range of restaurants in the city who volunteer their time and effort. You can go from trying a dumpling at Rickshaw Dumpling Bar's table, maybe some barbecue at Blue Smoke or Hill Country's table, then find yourself trying something from Morimoto.

I ate EVERYTHING.

Maybe not everything, but I feel like I got pretty close. It is a huge food fest. At first you think you're in control of the situation. You think, "No, I won't have that cake thing because I'm gonna try all the savory stuff then come back around to that." But around the time you've shoved the fifth food item all of that goes out of the window and you find yourself going from tuna tartare, to a cup of chocolate of some form with a little bit of gold leaf, then cured salmon and...oooh! Is that beef with foie gras?

The main reason why I was stuffing my face was because I'd just managed to go down a line of tables and drink several drinks created by New York's bartenders. As much as it is an event for restaurants to show their stuff for a good cause, the New York Taste of the Nation also gave a chance for drinks to have their moment as well. And besides cocktails there were also plenty of wine and beer and even coffee. There was no way I was going to be doing all the wine and beer without the very real possibility of not being able to make it into work the next day, so I stuck with the cocktails.

Once I got my wristband, I skipped up the steps to the VIP area to try some cocktails from Tabla. They had on hand their Tabla-tini and Tamarind Margarita. The Tabla-tini is made with citrus based vodka, gin, and a housemade blend of pineapple and lemon grass. The Tamarind Margarita is made with tequila triple sec, tamarind, orange juice and lime juice.

Tabla manger Tyler Vaughan said that they were currently working on a kumquat mojito that will probably turn into a watermelon mojito in the summer. Tyler also added that during the summer the restaurant plans on offering the margarita and Tabla-tini by the pitcher and is also planning to serve an India-inspired sangria.

I made my way back downstairs to the bar station and girded myself to start making my way down. The first table I stopped at was manned by Mr. Eben Klemm, director of cocktail development at B.R. Guest, who I hadn't seen since...well, last year's Taste of the Nation.

"Yes, the last time you saw me, I was standing here," Eben said, then after a pause added, "And I've been here since then. For the past 364 days I've been here mixing drinks hoping they'd let me go."

I like seeing Eben because he has the nattiest suits and natty suits bring a smile to my face.

Mr. Klemm was mixing a Tequila Sunbolt made with Herradura Silver tequila, limeade and red pepper water. Red pepper water? According to Eben Klemm it's just roasted peeled peppers pressed through a sieve.

At the next table, Michael and Vito from Little Branch were making the Cock and Bull Special. It was a stiff concoction made with Woodford Reserve bourbon, Benedictine, cointreau and Cognac Claude Chatelier VSOP.

Eben Freeman from Tailor was also in attendance, but he kept things simple by bringing some of his bubblegum vodka. Not any less different in level of oddness from the Cape Codder caviar he was making at the New York Taste of the Nation two years ago, but definitely not as complex. He was practically plating that caviar whereas this was just a pour. "For an event like this I've found that it's better to do something fun and easy," he said. Can't argue with that. Especially when it generates the responses I saw when people sidled up to Eben's table, to see him there with just rows of bottles filled with "Barbie's Cadillac"-pink vodka behind him.

"So, what's this?" they'd ask apprehensively.

"Bubblegum vodka," he'd answer.

They'd all give a look that can only be described in the following conjectured monologue: "Huh, ok...wait, did he just say 'bubblegum vodka'? WEIRD. Well, I like bubblegum. I think. Does he mean it's bubble-game flavored or is this one of his insane solids? No, it's in a bottle; he's pouring it. I wonder if I can still chew this."

I sipped on my own glass of the stuff and chuckled to myself at this thought when I saw Eben pull a brown bottle from out of nowhere, pour a bit of it in a glass. I thought it was his own secret stash for himself at first, but he pushed the glass towards me and said, "It's a garam masala rum."

"Ooooooooooh!" I pretty much squealed as I picked it up.

"I think the cinnamon's a bit to strong on this one, I might do less of it," he said then went on to say it was for a "Masala Mai Tai" he was working on. In dark rum he added the usual garam masala spices such as black pepper, coriander and cloves, but added his own touch with some green curry leaves. He wanted to a tiki drink, but didn't want something too sweet and thought spices would help lend a more savory aspect to it.

I asked Eben if he was changing up the solids menu anytime soon and he said probably in the foreseeable future. He said there were some absinthe gummy bears in the works (Sam Mason's idea). I asked if there were gummy bear molds or some kind of machine available for purchasing, because I don't believe ever having seen one of those. Eben said there were no molds, just gummy bears pressed into corn starch and the impression used as a mold.

Pegu Club was representing with their Grapefruit Cooler. Kenta Goto said that they wanted to make something refreshing for the guests who would be eating a lot of food. The cooler is made with grapefruit vodka, lemon juice, honey, Peychaud's bitters and a touch of Pegu with housemade grapefruit syrup. The pale pink drink is garnished with some organic flowers.

I then visited Don, John and Jim at their PDT table. They were also bringing the spirits strong with their Woodford Witch, made with Woodford Reserve Bourbon, Lustau Palo Cortado Sherry, Strega, simple syrup, a dash of Fee Brother's Orange Bitters and a dash of Regan's Orange Bitters.

"You guys get extra points for printing out the recipe," I said, giving my pen hand a rest. Jim explained that they'd learned that at events of this type it was easier to have the recipe to hand out since usually the first question people asked was "What's in this?"

I swung on back over to the Clover Club (technically for Flatiron Lounge as well, I suppose, since the Clover Club is not scheduled to open until June), and chatted a bit with Julie Reiner as well as head bartender apparent for the soon-to-be opened Clover Club Giuseppe Gonzalez.

Giuseppe mixed up a Diablo, made with Herradura Silver tequila, fresh lemon juice, housemade ginger beer and sweetened with creme de casses.

I took a sip, thought for a second, took another sip and said, "Is it just me, or is there a bit of spiciness in the back of the throat?"

"That's because of the housemade ginger beer," Giuseppe said. Rather than using ginger ale, the handmade version was opted for because it provided "a little more character than something out of a bottle."

Bubblegum Vodka and the hands of its creator; Tailor.



Grapefruit Cooler, Pegu Club



Woodford Witch, PDT



Woodford Witch, with a view of the ginormous strainer/pitcher combo in the back



Diablo, Clover Club

Aureole's new summer cocktails

May 14

Aureole held a small gathering on the afternoon of the 14th to showcase several cocktails using Limonce limoncello and GranGala orange liqueur created by mixologist Ektoras Binikos. There was also a blind taste test for orange liqueur and the cocktails were paired with food created by Aureole's executive chef Tony Aiazzi. To say the least, the cocktail flavors were mainly citrus, and some played up the lightly sweetened aspect even more with a hit of soda. All seemed like drinks to go with food.

The food was interesting ranging from a very crispy-on-the-outside mini crab cakes, to some pretty sweet oysters. Though some guests (including myself) couldn't help but grab at some of the kumquats decorating the cocktail table.

The Amalfi
1 1/2 oz Citorn Vodka
1/2 oz Limonce Limoncello
1/2 fresh lime juice
2 sprigs lemon thyme
splash of yuzu juice

Capri
1 oz Miller's gin
1/2 oz Limonce Limoncello
5 kumquats
4 fresh mint leaves
3 dashes Regan's Orange Bitters
splash of soda

Mediterranee
1 oz Pineau Des Charentes
1/2 oz Limonce LImoncello
1 oz fresh Meyer lemon juice
zest of a Meyer lemon
2 dashes of Regan's Orange Bitters
1 sage leaf

Havana
1 1/2 oz Marti Autentico Cuban Rum
1/2 oz Imported GranGala Triple Orange Liqueur
1 oz fresh ruby red grapefruit juice
3-4 drops of Angostura bitters
1/2 oz fresh lime juice
fresh mint

Cote d'Azure
1 1/2 oz of Millers Gin
1/2 oz Imported GranGala Triple Orange Liqueur
Dash of Creme de Cassis
1 oz fresh lemon juice
splash of soda
9 blueberries, 3 for garnish
4 fresh mint leaves



Madame Butterfly
1/2 oz Imported GranGala Triple Orange LIqueur
1/2 oz orange vodka
1/2 oz Aperol
1/2 oz Verjus
1/2 oz yuzu juice

Wednesday, May 14, 2008

Tales of the Cocktail announces Spirit Awards Nominees

(Note: Photos courtesy of Tales of the Cocktail)

May 12

The place was spookily calm and quiet when I arrived at the Flatiron Lounge for a Tales of the Cocktail event compared to the last time I'd been there for a Tales event.

I sipped on a Punch & Judy, the winning cocktail for the Tales of the Cocktail Official Cocktail Competition, and talked a bit with Francis Schott as well as Hanna Lee of Hanna Lee Communications Inc., whom I run into often and finds it ridiculously cute that I speak Korean. I mostly knew Mr. Schott through emails about drinks that I regularly receive from Stage Left Restaurant, and we talked about his podcast radio program, "The Restaurant Guys," which he hosts with his partner Mark Pascal.

Then all of the sudden the doors burst open and it was instant chaos. The bartenders had arrived. They were returning from a croquet tournament that started at 11 in the morning.

I said hello to Mr. Dale DeGroff and spotted Gary Regan who looked (awesome) like a weathered Texas Ranger out of a spaghetti western version of Gandalf the Grey with his long coat, hat and flowing locks. This means that so far I've seen Gary Regan in three different incarnations.

There was a lot of new people meeting. Jonathan Pogash was there. I hadn't seen him since the Grand Marnier summit in Vail, Colo. There was also Maxwell Britten, who you can find behind the bar at Jack the Horse Tavern in Brooklyn. I didn't really get to talk to him when I saw him previously at the Rhum Clement event, so I was glad to chat. I finally met the other half of the Tippling Bros., Paul Tanguay, as well as the third founding member of Contemporary Cocktails Inc. who was always mysteriously absent, Kristopher Karr (he explained that he had been out of sight because he was working with a bar out of the country for the past 14 months).

As more people pressed in I was soon buffeted about like I was inner tubing down some rapids made out of people and bar fixtures. I tried very hard to stay out of the way, but that wasn't happening anytime soon. I even found myself cornered into a pocket created entirely by people and was trapped. Several times I landed myself in spots briefly enough to talk to people, but I was starting to get claustrophobic.

Throughout all this, I noted that the interesting thing about both times that I went to a Tales of the Cocktail Event at Flatiron Lounge is it feels very different from other events I go to. You feel like the bartenders and mixologists know they can let their hair down.

(l-r: Julie Reiner, Charlotte Voisey and Ann Rogers)



I finally rooted myself in a spot long enough to hear Ann Rogers, founder of Tales of the Cocktail, announce the Official Cocktail Competition winner and runners up. Charlotte Voisey, who won $1,500 for her winning Official Cocktail entry, said during her acceptance speech that she would be giving her prize money back to Tales of the Cocktail.

Nominees announced were for categories of:

Best Drink Selection
Cantina - San Francisco, USA
Death & Company - New York City, USA
Der Raum - Melbourne, Australia
Doheney - Downtown Los Angeles, USA
The Merchant Hotel - Belfast, Northern Ireland
Salvatore's Bar at Fifty - London, England
Trio Bar - Berlin, Germany
Matterhorn - Wellington, New Zealand

Best Classic Cocktail Bar
American Bar - Connaught Hotel, London, England
Bramble - Edinburgh, Scotland
Death & Co. - New York City, USA
Dukes Bar - Dukes Hotel, London, England
Experimental Cocktail Club - Paris, France
Flatiron Lounge - New York City, USA
Milk and Honey- New York City, USA
Bar Le Forum - Paris, France
The Merchant Hotel - Belfast, Northern Ireland
Montgomery Place - London, England
Widder Bar - Zurich, Switzerland

World's Best Cocktail Bar
The Flat Iron Lounge - New York City, USA
Le Lion - Hamburg, Germany
The Lonsdale - London, England
The Merchant Hotel - Belfast, Northern Ireland
Milk & Honey - New York, USA
Milk & Honey - London, England
Paparazzi - Bratislava, Slovak Republic
Salvatore at Fifty - London, England
Star Bar - Ginza, Tokyo, Japan

Best New Cocktail Bar
Bar Milano, New York City, USA
Beretta, San Francisco, USA
Death & Company, New York City, USA
Le Lion de Paris, Hamburg, Germany
02 Lounge, Ritz Carlton, Moscow
PDT (Please Don't Tell), New York City, USA
Ruby, Copenhagen, Denmark

Mixologist/Bartender of the Year
John Gerstern - No.9 Park, Boston, USA
Kenta Goto of Pegu Club - New York City, USA
Charles Joly - The Drawing Room, Chicago, USA
Duggan McDonnell - Cantina, San Francisco, USA
Erik Lorincz - Purple Bar, London, England
Jim Meehan - PDT, New York City, USA
Ago Perrone - Montgomery Place, London, England
Sam Ross - Milk & Honey New York City, USA
Nick Strangeway - Hawksmoor, London, England
Charles Vexenat - The Lonsdale, London, England
Philip Ward - Death & Company, New York City, USA

Other categories included Best Cocktail Writing, Best New Product, Best Cocktail Menu, Best Drinks Brand Representative/ Brand Ambassador. New award categories were also announced along with the nominees. There was the Best New Cocktail/Bartending Book Category and the Helen David Lifetime Achievement Award.

Here are the recipes from the Official Cocktails Competition:

Best of Show
Charlotte Voisey, mixologist, Hendrick's Gin brand champion

Punch and Judy
1 oz Martell VSOP
1/4 oz Old New Orleans Crystal Rum
1/2 oz Hendrick's Gin
1/2 oz Bols Orange Curacao
2 oz pineapple juice
1/2 oz freshly squeezed lim juice
1/2 oz orange juice
1/2 oz Partida agave nectar
2 dashes Angostura bitters
4 mint leaves

Second Place
Debbi Peek, master bartender, The Drawing Room at Le Passage

Nola's Nectar
1/2 oz Martell VSOP
1 1/2 oz Old New Orleans Amber Rum
3/4 oz Partida Agave Nectar
1/2 oz fresh grated ginger
1/2 oz fresh lime juice
1/2 oz water

Third Place
Kristi A. Svane, bartender, Grove Park Inn Resort and Spa

Big Easy Milk Punch
3/4 oz Martell VSOP
3/4 Old New Orleans Amber Rum
3/4 brown sugar simple syrup
2 oz milk
2 dashes cinnamon
1 dahs nutmeg
1 slice orange
1/2 oz fresh squeezed orange juice (no pulp)

Honorable Mention
Erana Hardy, bartender, Cafe Giovani

Hardy Punch
100% Blood orange juice not from concentrate
1 shot Old New Orleans Amber Rum
1 shot Martell
5 oz Mereo Red Wine

Thursday, May 8, 2008

Beard House dining and drinking with the folks from Disney

May 7
I was drafted by our executive food editor Pam Parseghian to go to dinner at the James Beard House in her stead due to pages still needing to be closed. I was more than happy to agree to go to the Beard House again and this particular evening was showcasing both the food and wine with chefs and Master Sommeliers from Disneyland Resorts as well as Walt Disney World.

It was a Disney evening with tables designated with the name of Disney characters. Guests received pins of characters in case they forgot which table they were seated at. I got a Minnie pin. My face fell a little as I jealously stared at someone else's Winnie the Pooh pin. I love Winnie the Pooh...

The servers wore black and white vests with images of Mickey and the gang, which at the end of the evening during dessert mysteriously changed to a color-splashed version. Even the flower centerpieces on the table had little glowing lights in them that made it look like Tinkerbell was trying to hide in the flower vase and spy on us eating.

"After running after hyperactive kids all day, I'm sure the parents would like to relax with a glass of something," I quipped to Michael Jordan, master sommelier for Disneyland. Wow...wait, that came out wrong and mean and I totally didn't mean for it to sound like that. Let me try that again:

A Disneyland or Disney World trip is basically a dream come true for a kid, but don't forget that kids don't go on trips to Disney alone. Or for that matter, adults may make return trips for nostalgia. It's a family event. Families plan and save months in advance to visit. So why not have a food and drink experience to go with that high expectation? Let's put it this way. If after looking forward to living the princess fantasy in a Princess Diaries Suite or meeting Mickey at a place that's got castles and was built on the foundation of fairy tales, and as a mom and/or dad you've just taken out a couple of vacation days out of your busy schedule...a soggy third-rate corn dog isn't going to cut it (not that there's anything wrong with corn dogs, I inhale the things).

As Dieter Hannig, vice president for Walt Disney World food and beverage new concepts, told everyone at the Beard House that evening "I'm in the storytelling business." If someone is visiting Disneyland or Disney World expecting a magical experience, well good service, food and drink should be part of that as well.

Michael Jordan, master sommelier for Disneyland, said that adults visiting Disneyland are also more well-traveled and knowledgeable about the varieties of wines out there and are willing to try new wines. The wine program encourages the curious to try out new as well as rare wines through by the glass programs so that guests can sample a bit of the wine rather than commit to a whole bottle that may cost several hundreds of dollars. Jordan explained that with the current state of the dollar a lot of foreign tourists are visiting and purchasing more of the expensive wines.

I was glad to meet Michael as well as John Blazon, master sommelier and manager of wine sales and standards for Walt Disney World. Not being a wine expert I always feel better hearing from people who actually know something about wine rather than fumble around with my lack of eloquence in such matters. John and Michael both explained the pairing choices throughout the evening, and even followed up by walking by tables and answering any questions people had after the introduction of the wines for each course.

For example, the first course of white asparagus "floating islands" with American Sturgeon caviar, morel mushrooms and ramp oil was paired with a Laurent-Perrier, Grand Siecle Brut, Tours-sur-Marne NV. As soon as I took I sip I thought, "This tastes like mushrooms."

When I told Michael this, he said that the "mushroomy" flavor I so bluntly described comes from the presence of botrytis in the grapes used to make the wine, which gives it a more earthy and indeed mushroom-like flavor. The food had plenty of earthy flavors from the asparagus as well as the morels as well as some saltiness from the caviar, so this wine was chosen for its flavors that the two could play nice.

Note: I said "The what-what now?" in my head when Michael first said "bitrytus" and it took me several permutations on Google to find the correct spelling.

And after hearing Michael's description of how the grapes for the Chardonnay (Peter Michael, Chardonnay, Belle Cote, Knights Valley '06) were planted in holes blasted into what was basically rock and volcanic ash I did notice it tasted a bit "ashy" but was surprised at how sweet it was because I figured the hard knock life of the particular vine would made the resulting grape all rough and, well, bitter.

Michael said that this wasn't "sweetness," but sucrosity. The rough life it has sort of concentrates the fruit of the grapes.

"Aaah," I said as I thoughtfully nodded my head.

It was nice having a bit of narration going on with my meal, since my knowledge of wines falls under "Well, this is what it tastes like in my mouth right now," then describing very bluntly what it tastes like in my mouth. Hearing about how the grapes for the wines are grown and what flavors to expect was like having a CliffsNotes, and wine was my "Ulysses" — full of different characters, bold and subtle context and side stories to grasp all carried in the scheme of one person's day, or in a sip in the case of wine.

The evening was closed out with the introduction of a sweet sparkling wine that was making its first US debut at this particular dinner (Magicale, Brachetto, PIemonte DOC NV).

Disney also took the dinner as an opportunity to make several announcements. Dieter Hannig announced a new African concept restaurant to open in about 11 months or so. Chef Christine Weissman mad an announcement about Disney's upcoming 3rd Annual California Food and Wine Fest.

Stuart McGuire, director of beverage sale and standards for Walt Disney World food and beverages, also announced three cocktails from the menu for The Wave, a new restaurant at Disney's Contemporary Resort that's set to open in June.

The cocktails announced:

Antioxidant Cocktail
Finlandia Wild Berries Vodka, Chambord Black Raspberry Liqueur, Bossa Nova Acai Juice with agave, aloe juice, lychee and freshly squeezed lemon juice

Pure-tini
Purus Organic Vodka, X-Fusion Organic Mango and Passion Fruit LIqueur, and cranberry juice

Agava Nectar Margarita
Partida Blanco Tequila, organic agave nectar and freshly squeezed lime juice


Food and drink from the dinner:

Hors d'oeuvres
Chef Gloria Tae — Golden Wine Winery at Disney's California Adventure

Sherry-roasted figs with Jamon Iberico and Cabrales

Wild Mushroom Suppli with BRaised Pork and Spicy Pickled Cabbage

Shrimp and Sweat Pea Tartine with Candied Garlic and Lemon Relish

Laurent-Perrier, Grand Siecle Brut,
Tours-sur-Marne NV


First Course
Chef Jens Dahlmann — California Grill at Disney's Contemporary Resort

White Asparagus "Floating Islands" with American Sturgeon Caviar, Morel Mushrooms, and Ramp Oil

Pierre Sparr, Riesling, Schoenenbourg
Grand Cru, Alsace '01


Second Course
Chef Tim Keating — Flying Fish Cafe at Disney's BoardWalk Resort

Fennel Pollen-dusted Wild North Atlantic Turbot with Maine Lobster, Celery Root, Leeks, and FEnnel with Tahitian Vanilla-Hazelnut Emulsion and Montegottero Hazelnut Oil

Peter Michael, Chardonnay, Belle Cote,
Knights Valley '06


Third Course
Chef Andrew Sutton — Napa Rose at Disney's Grand Californian Resort & Spa

Crisp Sonoma Duck Confit with Roasted BAby Spring Vegetables and Porcini Msuhroom Essence

Williams & Selyem, Pinot Noir,
Allen Vineyard, Russian River Valley '05


Fourth Course
Chef Scott Hunnel — Victoria & Albert's at Disney's Grand Floridian Resort & Spa

Marcho Farms Veal Tenderloin with Sun Gold Tomatoes and Garlic Roots and Shoots

Podere Le Poggiarelle,
Carmignano DOCG, Tuscany '04


Dessert
Master Pastry Chef Erich Herbitschek — Disney's Grand Floridian Resort & Spa Bakery

Wild Berry Gateau wrapped in Bittersweet Chocolate with Forest Strawberry Sorbet

Magicale, Brachetto, Piemonte DOC NV

Friandise

Caramel-Chocolates with Sea Salt, Pate de Fruit, and Lemon Cookies

Tuesday, May 6, 2008

Taking PDT's new spring menu out for a spin

May 5

Of all the drinks I tried on PDT's new spring menu, I found myself liking The Rite of Spring very much. It had piqued my interest since Don described it to me at the Rhum Clement event, and I was looking forward to giving it a try. However, a close contender would be the Swiss Mist, which Jim let me try on Friday.

"I'm just here to kill two hours before I go see Iron Man," I reassured Jim when I stopped by PDT on Friday with fellow NRNer Elizabeth Licata. I didn't want them to think I was casing the place. Then again, I kind of totally was since I'd be lying if I said a little part of me wasn't there to find out for sure when the new menu was going to debut. Don had told me the week prior that the ETA was probably sometime around the weekend of May 2, but Jim said it was looking more like Monday would be the day.

So on Monday I flitted out of work at 5:40 pm and rushed on down to PDT. The hostess who greeted me at the phone booth told asked me if I didn't mind waiting a minute or two since the bar was trying to take it slow between people on account of the new menu.

Once I got in I kind of stared at the menu for a couple of minutes. Menu choices are always daunting because I'm terrible with decision making, and there were plenty of interesting-sounding items. The Rhubarbarita caught my eye because of the rhubarb puree...and, well, because it was Cinco de Mayo. The Rhubarbarita is made with Partida Resposado tequila, lemon juice, Grand Marnier, Veloce and the above mentioned rhubarb puree that is sweetened with agave nectar. It was a sweet start, with a bit of body added to the texture of the drink from the rhubarb puree.

If anything, the menu definitely was a show in seasonal ingredients and flavors. The honey liqueur in the Bee's Sip. A hint of berry with raspberry preserves ("until seasonal berries are available") in the Rose.

Also, to go with the light airiness of spring, there was some misting going on with the drinks. The Swiss Mist I tried on Friday is described as a "grapefruit accented silver gin sour" on the menu. Made with Gin, lemon, grapefruit syrup and egg white, the lightly sweet and foamy drink gets a slight spraying of Kubler Swiss absinthe from an atomizer.

Other drinks get a bit of misting too, but the mist goes in the cup before the drink rather than on the drink. For example, the Kin Kan (Beefeater Gin, lemon juice, kumquat syrup, St. Germain), gets a spritzing of St. Germain.

The the next drink I had to try the Rites of Spring. As someone who finds a swig of sour dill pickle juice straight from the jar or spicy tangy pickled kimchi brine with some cold noodles most refreshing a hot summer day, the mention of "pickled ramp brine" had me salivating as I read the description on the menu. Pickled ramp brine from Momofuku Ssam Bar, Tanqueray Gin, and Vya dry vermouth combine to create a surprisingly not all that sour drink. More clean on the tongue for a dirty martini, the tangy pickled ramp flavor mostly kicks in as an aftertaste.

"It's not as sour as I thought," I told Don.

"Did you try the pickled ramp brine on its own? It's pretty intense," Don said.

I asked for a taste and it was good. Sour, but sweet with a bit of heat. I probably could've just had a glass of that all evening long. Keep in mind though, that the person writing this enjoys eating lemons and limes (besides the pickle juice drinking mentioned above). My tooth enamel cries for me.

"How's the new menu going?" I asked Don who was going through the ingredients with a checklist as Jim informed him of inconsistencies on the behind-the-bar recipes list.

"Ask me again in four hours," he answered.

I tried The Mariner next mostly because I found the cardamom syrup intriguing. Again, I was surprised by how light the flavors were, even with the combination of Compass Box Oak Cross malt scotch whisky, pineapple juice, lemon juice and smoked cardamom syrup.

I tasted the cardamom syrup on its own. You got most of the spicy almost medicinal cardamom-ness (it's a word if I say it is) when you smell it, but when you taste it, that's where the smokiness hits. If you hold it against the front of your tongue, it gives off a slight burn as well.

The interesting thing was, no matter how complex, everything still managed to be light and not overbearing. Cardamom? In a syrup? Smoked? with malt scotch whisky AND pineapple juice?"

It's definitely smoky and a little sweet, but on the whole The Mariner isn't weighed down as a cocktail.

Even spirits-based drinks like the Rites of Spring, manage to come across as airy spring drinks. I asked Jim what I should try next and he mixed me a Hotel D'Alsace, which again, sort of took me aback at how light and sweet it was. Bushmills, Cointreau, Benedictine and rosemary came together as a slightly sugared herbal drink. Jim said that people found this drink to be their new favorite, but it wasn't going to unseating Rites of Spring or the Swiss Mist for me anytime soon, but that's just me.

It came down to the Bee's Sip (Chamomile Infused Barsol Pisco, Masumi "Okuden Kantsukuri" junmai sake and Barenjager Honey Liqueur) or The Kin Kan for me to choose for the last drink, and I went with the former. And the name fits. If bees drank alcohol this is what they'd probably drink. It tasted and smelled like honey and flowers.

I did make it a point to try the new addition to the food menu, The Wylie Dog. A deep fried Crif Dog with tomato molasses, shredded lettuce, dried onions and...battered deep fried mayo. Let me let that sink in with you for a moment.

.
.
.
.
.

OK, so when it came out I thought to myself, "Does that bun have two hot dogs on it?" If you think so, no, you're mistaken. And don't feel bad, I seriously thought that too. That second "hot dog" is the deep fried mayo. A stick of deep fried mayo. I like to think I'm not too shabby when it comes to describing things, but the only notes I have from last night about The Wylie Dog is, and I quote verbatim, "Deep fried mayo is EFFIN' delicious." Apparently I managed to lose all sense of using profanity to this hot dog.

(Download the full Spring Menu from PDT, here.)